How To Clean Commutator On Onan Generator

Topic: Generator Slip Rings

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Posted By: gt5-33 on 08/12/07 05:07pm Could someone please depict the process of cleaning slip rings? Are special tools required?

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Posted By: gunny357 on 08/12/07 05:50pm First a question for you. Why do want to clean them? Pitted?

Couple of ways, I utilize a commutator stone fabricated particularly for that purpose. Can use fine sand newspaper. Usually install new brushes after cleaning.

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Posted By: MrWizard on 08/12/07 08:02pm alcohol and cotton fiber cloth, or a small Contumely brush

anything that marks or scratches will practice more impairment than good

its very very rare for slip rings to NEED anything more than that, i save the commutator stone for segmented commutators of big motors that need it, then burnish with a hardwood tool afterwards to smooth & clean

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I tin can explain it to you.
But I Can Non understand it for you !
....

Connected using Verizon and AT&T
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

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Posted Past: kg5388 on 08/12/07 08:06pm we apply a small trimmed downwardly paint mix stick with some scotch brite pad folded and taped over the end.Don't utilize sandpaper from dwelling house depot every bit the grains will dig in and get lodged and cause more damage.

Don't do similar one of the guys in the shop and use a screw driver if you employ to much pressure and so the metal tip volition come through and scar up the rings.

if you lot reuse the brushes then rub them with scotch brite or what always to but lightly enough to remove the shiny surface

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Posted By: jackwmssr on 08/12/07 08:09pm Equally I am having generator problems now and take never seen the inside of one tin can you tell me what slip rings are. I e'er thought the brushes run on the commutator.

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Jackwmssr
2000 Georgie Male child,Cruise Air
2002 Explorer toad

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Posted Past: kg5388 on 08/12/07 08:18pm depends on if you have a brush type genset or not demand model number to exist of help.
the rotor of a genset has ii brass skid rings that brushes ride on and the controller or voltage reg will supply voltage to these rings to create a magnetic field in the rotor windings which will create voltage in the stator as the N and S poles of the now magnetic rotor passes over the coils of wire in the stator but similar those flashlights that you milkshake the magnet back and forth through the copper wires around the handle.

if y'all haven't commencement a thread with your genset type and model number and we should be able to help you lot

kevin

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Posted By: RRRKKK on 08/12/07 08:50pm Effort flying Systems they brand a tool for cleaning the slip rings. Information technology's no more than an acrylic stick with a course and fine side. I used it terminal year but my issues were the voltage regulator. Try their web site lot of good information in that location, and very helpful phone techs.

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There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness"
Ron K

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Posted By: Fulltimers on 08/12/07 10:31pm Run your generator under half to full load for an hour or then. That should clean them.

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Fulltimers
Fulltimers Weblog
2003 Rexhall Aerbus 3550BSL
W-22 Workhorse
2005 Saturn Vue (Mr. Toad)
three.5L V6 Automatic

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Posted By: MrWizard on 08/12/07 eleven:30pm your electric drill has a commutator, information technology is segemented, simply like the ones in common sometime style DC motors,

commutators carry LOAD ability and the brushes arc

slip rings, are continuous rings NO segments, and are used for Command power similar feild windings, a genny caput is an alternator producing Air-conditioning power, the control voltage and current are on the feild rotor thru the skid rings, the out put power comes on the HEAVY not-moving windings lining the inside of the case, Only similar your car alternator feild & slip rings

in your car/rv alternator in that location are some diodes that change the AC to DC before leaving the alternator

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Posted By: Chris Bryant on 08/13/07 05:42am I'll second the Flight Systems recommendation- they make a tool called the Slick Stick which is fast, easy and works well ($20).

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-- Chris Bryant

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Posted By: gt5-33 on 08/xvi/07 05:57pm Repost of trouble:
six.five NHEFA26100M
S/Due north B96348154
Unit of measurement in 1996 Newmar
Hours on Unit 225

On a Th evening started the generator and ran for 3 hours running A/C units. Shut unit off.

On Fri evening started the generator and ran for 3 hours operating the A/C units. Shut off generator.

On Saturday evening started the generator and ran for 1 hours operating A/C units. Generator shut down past itself. Tried to restart but unit would only run if the starter switch was in the outset position.

Oil okay
Oil sensor okay
Fuel okay

This happened in the past and I cleaned the command board, slip rings & brushes with electrical contact cleaner and the unit of measurement started working again until this last weekend.

Suggestions?

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Posted By: gunny357 on 08/16/07 06:06pm Are you shutting the Air conditioning off and letting the generator run unloaded for a couple of minutes or are you shutting the genset off with the Air conditioning withal running?

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Posted Past: gt5-33 on 08/16/07 07:30pm Shutting off the A/C units so there is no load on the generator before shutting downwards the generator.

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Posted By: rescuediver on 08/16/07 11:10pm Non to hijack the thread. Just I only picked up my Honda EB5000X from the shop today. The problem was the skid rings were corroded and the throttle jump was bankrupt. Thanks for posting the link for the Slick Stick. I will be buying one.

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'01 F250 4X4 7.three Powerstroke Diesel, Crew Cab,Edge Mental attitude w/Evolution,Sun Coast transmission,analog trans temp guage, Banking company's Monster iv" stainless steel frazzle, iv" lift,Firestone "Ride-Rite" air bags,Bilstein Shocks

1993 Weekend Warrior 36' 5th Wheel

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Posted By: gt5-33 on 08/18/07 05:28am Any suggestions about my problem?

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Posted By: rescuediver on 08/18/07 10:22am gt5-33, can only advise repeating the steps you had washed in an before post that got your generator running.

FYI, I took mine to United Rental (did a search nigh you and came upwardly with v shops, anyway, they were suggested by the local Honda dealer) they diagnosed my problem for $35 Might be worth the fee to have them tell you lot what'south incorrect. Then, you tin make the decision to set it yourself or take them.

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Posted Past: gunny357 on 08/xviii/07 10:57am Nice that folks pass on communication that has admittedly nothing to practice with the situation at hand or hijack the thread. Don't theu know how to start their own?

With that low of hours on the machine, I dubiety you have managed exist in demand of service to your brushes/sideslip rings.

Now that we have a little more than information equally to what you have and what it is doing I think we tin can pass on some meaningful communication.

It doesn't sound like you are having voltage bug just rather an engine close downward due to an engine protective device doing its thing. As information technology sounds like you take the oil shutdown pretty much eliminated, the next is heat. No bloackage or restriction to air vents or ducts? Insulation hanging down in the generator compartment? Not storing annihilation else in there?

Might be fuel. Endeavor runing it with the fuel tank cap off. Fuel pump might be failing. Careful around fule and sparks or a hot engine. When it shuts down see if the fuel pump is working. Run a line direct from the fuel pump into a gas can and run into how it does.

Let us know if we can be of further help.

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Posted By: gt5-33 on 08/nineteen/07 04:26pm gunny357 I have sent you a private message. I worked on my generator again today. The post-obit procedures were washed:

Inverse the oil and filter and used an Onan filter. I had a Wix filter on the unit of measurement and I seen posted here that some have had a problem with the Wix filter.
Cleaned the control board with electrical contact cleaner and rechecked the fuses.
Started the generator and it started correct up only when I released the start push button, it quit. Again I depressed the start push button and held until the generator was running smoothly, about ane minute. When I permit go of the offset button, information technology kept running. (My generator has always ran rich for a minute smoothing out). I turned on the A/C and everything was fine for several minutes. Then the genterator quit.

I then decided to trace downwardly the fuel line from the generator to the coach tank. I found know inline fuel filter. The fuel line terminated on top of the autobus tank. I could non come across the surface area where the fuel line attached only I am bold there is a separate tube for the generator equally everyone says the generator will non use all the fuel in the coach tank.

I decided to restart the generator but I removed the coach gas cap before starting. I started the generator past holding down the get-go switch for several seconds. When released, the unit continued to run. I again turned on the A/C and things were fine for several minutes. I was inside of the coach and heard a "pop" which sounded like a circuit billow and the generator quit.

Non sure what is next. Checked the cooling intake and frazzle and they are clear and lots of air going through the generator. The heads are hot to the touch but not certain how hot they should be. I'thousand assuming in that location is not a temp switch which will shut down the generator. Whatsoever assistance yous might provide wold be profoundly appreciated.

Tom

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Posted By: MrWizard on 08/xix/07 04:52pm have yous checked chris bryants site for the transmission for your genny

the manual should giving footstep by step instructions for trouble shooting

too me it sounds similar yous accept a control board thats acting up later on it warms up, it sounds like you lot are loosing the 12v command circuit for the fuel valve and fuel pump

I don't know if you feel safe doing this

simply i would rig a pocket-size jumper wire ( fuse it you lot wish ) from the master battery plus ( at the genny )to the fuel pump connexion ( splice or clip ) practice not disconnect from exsiting wiring

this volition give yous a 12v featherbed to the pump the fuel safety valve and the control relay

if the genny stays running, you have a bad control lath

this is simply for testing ( and must jumper to pump or fuel valve not to the starter or the command board )

other things can shut you down, an ignition module that is declining, or the secondary 12v charge/control winding from the genny opening upwardly under heat, that volition mean a tear downward of the genny head and cost big $$$

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Source: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/20135538/print/true.cfm

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